My major project for second year was based on menswear and is a live project with industry. The designer, brand etc is kept a secret until briefing day. We were really lucky this year and got to work with Ted Baker! The head menswear designer and the design director gave us the following key points for our brief:
- 6/7 outfits that reflect the ethos of the Ted Baker brand
- Distinctive design, humour, unconventional creativity, fabric and finish at its finest
- Target audience aged 25 and upwards
- High end high street, for formal and casual occasions
- Ted's Travels: Orient Express in the 50's, from Paris to Istanbul, luxurious from day to night
- Consider fabrics, prints and textures
For the project, we were in a smaller group of 6, but then a team member decided to leave the course, so our group was then limited to 5. This meant the same work distributed amongst less of us, but we still only had to make our minimum of 3 garments each, meaning we would end up with 5 outfits.
Our research project started from the Orient Express destinations, but it naturally moved into personal photographs and objects from our own travels. We looked at our primary research from Paris, Istanbul and Munich.
These different stops give a rich and royal feel from the Paris Opera House, crossed over with a cool and quirky vibe from Munich and a little more vibrancy from Istanbul.
Through our development when we were toiling our garments, we became really inspired by our research from Munich in response to the colder weather. The idea of transferable, trans-seasonal garments are really pushed here.
Jacket Development
Trouser Development
Jacket Development
Shirt Development
Collar Development
It was really important throughout the whole research and development process that the garments are really wearable and suitable for many occasions, because of the price points this will be the selling point of the collection.
From inspiration from the 50's, all of our research and development, our silhouette is a beautiful mix of curved and slouchy with a slim and sharp feel, with shawl lapels and cocoon shaped coats.
Final T Shirt and Print Sample. I hand screen printed jersey with an intricate pattern made from my primary photograph from the Paris Opera House. This was put in a panel down the centre front and back, and the sleeves. The side panels do not have side seams so the making of the t-shirt was slightly more difficult than usual, meaning I had to sew the sleeves in circular rather than flat. I love the results - I am really proud of the outcome! It is different, unique with hand crafted touches, and really wearable.
These trousers are made from a speckled wool sourced from London. They are a slim fit smart/casual trouser with beautiful beetroot pockets and a silky grey front lining. I have carried through the screen printing from the t-shirt onto parts of the pocket bags. The pockets are bound with grey bias binding to co ordinate with the grey front lining. They have a fly front with a zip, a pointed waist band on the inside, jet pockets and normal trouser pockets. Subtle topstitching pulls it all together and adds to the structure. I am also really proud of the manufacture and fit of these, they really turned out well and although the colour of them aren't to my taste, they fit the brief and the brand really well.
This tailored casual-fit jacket really is the show-stopper of my garments. I am so so proud of the skills I learned, at the start of the process I never thought it would be possible. It is made from a beautifully soft, deep navy wool from London. Although it is a slouchy - fit with a simple (but hard to pattern cut and manufacture) shawl lapel, it has all the technical factors or a tailored jacket. I spent hours and hours on the pattern cutting, making a three - piece pattern with a double vent into a two - piece jacket and a single centre vent and altering the fit. This really challenged my pattern cutting skills and developed them beyond belief. The aesthetics also pushed the casual look - the patch pockets with no welts or jets and rounded shoulder pads along with the contrasting button.
This project was the most worthwhile thing I have done during my learning for Fashion Design. Every aspect was extremely challenging. Working in a group which had to produce a single collection, a single sketchbook and portfolio, and single ideas proved challenging at times; it is inevitable when trying to juggle everyone's creativity and ideas.
Working for industry was also an amazing opportunity. This meant that there was no leeway with our criteria or work; everything had to be perfect and finished within the deadlines set. This pushed some people's time management skills to the limit, and made others realise that they did well with their time. It also makes you realise what is most important, and helps you learn how to work to a set brief rather than a brief of your own; something that will happen in industry.
My own personal manufacture and pattern cutting skills, as well as research, planning, development and professionalism skills have come on in leaps and bounds. I feel like a brand new student and designer after the skills I have acquired during this project.
Detail photographs to follow when my garments have been marked and returned
Credits:
Final Photoshoot Photographer: Beatrice Ong
Model: Daniel Armstrong
Toile Development: Clair Hyndman, Beatrice Ong, Joanna Griggs, Paulina Giedrojc, Jess Barry
Print Research and Development: Joanna Griggs, Clair Hyndman
