Dyeing

Part of my project involved creating unique garments that can't be replicated, much like a cell - they are all individual. This also means the customer is involved in the garment - they can choose their favourite unique piece that no one else will have. I wanted to create my circular shapes on the jacket using tie dye. This meant that I had to make the entire jacket and then dye it in the hot dye pans. This was very risky and exciting as I only had one attempt, but this was very much part of the process. I also wanted to dye my skirt, as I couldn't find the exact grey colour in the fabric I was looking for and didn't want to settle for anything that wasn't right. So I dyed each panel in the dye bath all at the same time to get a consistent colour.

Funnel Skirt Toiles

Although my skirt was a supporting garment, it ended up being the most challenging of all three. It included a double front and back structured pocket, a centre back split, a concealed zip in the centre back and a waistband. My aim was for the skirt to be very very fitted. The first toile was far too big on my model so I pinned it out to transfer to the pattern. I wanted a gap where the pockets met at the top, so used fabric to mock this and pin out the excess. My second and final toile was very difficult. I planned on having no seam in the pocket so the pocket bag would need to join another seam - the CB. This proved very difficult and altered the shape and fit of the skirt. After re trying, I ended up creating a structured pocket on the back too. This was very difficult to pattern cut and manufacture.

Jersey Top Toiles

This was the first time I had worked with Jersey but was keen to try it out. It was challenging but I got an amazing result in the end. To create a gathered/pleated top, I needed an 'under-top'/lining to hold it all together, so I had to get the fit of this right first before tackling the over top. After 3 toiles, I managed to get the fit right and used the third to build the over top on. I altered my pattern to give me over double the amount of fabric and notched it so I knew how much to pleat. I pinned and stay-stitched the notches on the hem, neck and arms. I overlocked the top together on the jersey overlocker, then overlocked the necks of the tops together. I then faced the challenge of how to attach the hem...after trial and error, it involved turning half of the hem through the two layers of the arms then back through.

Jacket Toiles

My jacket was the main garment in my final chosen outfit, so It was important to get this right before moving on to the other garments. Toiling helped me overcome the challenges of the bulk in the kimono sleeve to give a more flattering, simple look. Also, I could figure out the placement of the curved seams running through the jacket, the shape of the hem and how I would finish the raw edges. I decided on a facing around the neck and centre front, and binding around the hem and wrists. 

The Colour Project Continued

| DEVELOPMENT | PRINT | ADAPTATIONS | FUNNEL | CELL | CURVED | SUBTLE |

Only four weeks left of the project. 

The Start of the Colour Project

Sketchbook pages/design work from my current project, influenced my my trend forecast of science, cells and distortion. Curved, circular (cell-like) silhouette compliment the funnel shape around the hips, shoulders etc. Greyscale colour palette influenced from cell imagery using electron microscopes, with bursts of vibrant blues taken forward from the trend. Detailing will be subtle to coincide with heavy prints influenced by distorted cells. Gathering will create curves and volume, contrasting with structured skirts and tight trousers (?), emphasising the funnel shape...